Monthly Archives: September 2013

It’s Fall, Plant Lettuce Now

Big Tex

When you are “fixing” to go to the Texas State Fair and see Big Tex, you know it’s fall in Texas and time to be planting cole crops and cool season greens.

My lettuce and spinach seeds are in the ground and I am waiting, waiting, waiting for them to germinate. Last year  Oak Leaf Lettuce and Red Sails provided a border for my perennial beds and salad for our meals; the perfect ornamental edible!

All winter long and up until June, we could pick  salads from the backyard. Lettuce being cold hardy  can withstand a light frost and  even lower temperatures without cover. (If temperatures, fall down into the 20’s, cover your lettuce.)

Salad Greens as a Border, Ornamental Edibles!

At the Demonstration Garden, we have enjoyed lettuce grown in our raised  beds.

Spring Lettuce in a Raised Bed

Lettuce does not need full sun and is best started in the fall in Dallas.  You can also buy transplants now at your favorite garden center.

“Leaf lettuce (often called loose-leaf lettuce) is perhaps the best adapted choice for our Texas climate. It forms loose rosettes of leaves that come in a range of colors from various shades of green to burgundy including speckled types. Leaves may be harvested individually or as with other lettuce types you can harvest entire plants at one time. Another option is to “mow” the plants back part way with scissors and then allow them to regrow for a later harvest.” (Quote from Texas Gardener)

Search for loose leaf varieties like Black Seeded Simpson, Red Sails, Oak Leaf, Green Ice, and Prize Leaf.  Try  Little Caesar for a Romaine type of lettuce and Buttercrunch for a sweet butter head type lettuce.

To read more about growing lettuce read: Lettuce From Seed To Harvest in Texas Gardener.

Before you go to the Texas State Fair, get out in your garden and plant to enjoy a long season of homegrown lettuce!

Ann

Outstanding At The Field-An Invitation

pumkin growing in the demo garden

Master Gardeners at the Joe Field Demonstration Garden invite you to…

“Outstanding at the Field”

Guests will enjoy a fall feast celebrating the harvest, the land, and the farmers that cultivate the food for our table.

Lunch will served on white tablecloths covering a long table

set within our lovely fall garden.

 Garden to Table Harvest Lunch

Mother’s Meatloaf with Piquant Sauce

Skillet Fried Corn

A “Mess of Peas” with Sweet-and-Spicy Chow-Chow

Roasted Butternut Squash Salad with Warm Cider Vinaigrette

Dixie Cornbread with Honey-Thyme Butter & Tomato Jam

Caramel Apple Layer Cake with Apple Cider Frosting

or

Layered Pumpkin Pie in a Jar

 and

“Growing and Grilling”

 A special presentation by Master Gardener Tim Allsup

(One-hour Education Credit for Master Gardeners)

11:00 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. Tuesday, October 29

 $15 per person

 Proceeds benefit educational tours for Dallas schoolchildren

Your reservation is your check for $15 made out to DCMG.  Checks must be received by October 15th.

If you would like to come, please email us at dallasgardenbuzz@gmail.com

 Enrollment is limited.

This event is open to all Master Gardeners, friends, and the public.

SHRUBS: THE UNSUNG HEROES OF YOUR GARDEN

Let’s face it.  Shrubs can be boring.  We all have the house in our neighborhood with green “meatballs” or “meatloaves” arranged haphazardly along the foundation.  Throw a line of pruned green along the edge of your house and you’re done. Right?

Shrubs are like clarinets and flutes in the high school band; they provide the structure for all the other components of the landscape—or musicians.  If you think of your landscape as a grouping of upright trees for a canopy, lawns for flooring, and annuals and perennials for bling, the careful choice of shrubs is essential.

How do you use shrubs in a landscape? Shrubs can provide many functions:

  • screen unsightly views or strong winds
  • break a landscape into outdoor spaces
  • serve as a background for a garden accent
  • give scale and unity
  • provide beauty from foliage, flowers, or contrasting foliage.
Shrubs at the Demonstration Garden include blooming Spirea and Abelia in the background

Shrubs at the Demonstration Garden include blooming Spirea and Abelia in the background

Choose shrubs based on their mature size.  My neighbor planted holly as a foundation planting several years ago.  The shrubs are now 10’ x 10’—you can guess where this is going—and she has cut large rectangles in the middle of the hedge, following the outline of the windows.  This look has not been featured on HGTV.  Read the label on your shrub purchase.  Many shrubs now come in smaller sizes, perfect for one-story homes and compact landscapes.

Some shrubs want sun, some shade, and some don’t care.  Oh, that kids were that easy. Cast iron plants are a staple in deep shade.  Dwarf yaupon holly is dependable in full sun to part sun; in deep shade they will survive, but not grow.

Don’t go crazy on the number of shrub species for your landscape.  Limit yourself to five or six varieties for the front yard, more for the back yard.  Group shrubs to contrast foliage textures or colors.

Mike and I often duck into a local sports bar/fried oyster and fish restaurant. While Mike is eager to settle down with a plate of catfish and the football game, I often want to linger in the carefully planned landscape of shrubs.  Situated in Dallas’ blowtorch west sun by a six-lane major street, the shrubs give patrons a Gulf of Mexico beach feel.  Wax myrtles and Texas sage screen the parking lot from heavy traffic.  Horsetail and nandina line the sidewalk.  Large palms flourish in the heat as foundation plantings. Oh, did I mention the food’s great, too?

Elizabeth

Separating the Seeds from the Chaff

It is a common mistake made by those gardeners who wish to save their own seeds.  Just what part of a seed pod is actually the seed and what is the chaff, that part of a seed head that can be separated and thrown away.  Sounds easy to tell?  It is, if you are saving squash, tomato, sunflower and other easily distinguishable seeds.  However, if you have ever gone to a seed exchange, perhaps you have excitedly brought home a small zip lock bag full of handpicked, thin, sharp, dark brown “seeds” from the Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea).  After carefully planting and watering these “seeds” in your garden, you find that not even one grows.   Unfortunately at this point you have now joined the ranks of many gardeners in confusing the seeds from the chaff.

Coneflower, a native perennial, is one of the prettiest and easiest plants to grow in both full sun and even partial shade.  Though they prefer good, fertile soil, being a native plant, they will adapt to less hospitable areas and are hardy in USDA Zones 3-9.  Long-lived and drought tolerant once established, they are impervious to most insects and diseases.  A butterfly nectar plant, their seed filled cones are a favorite of song birds such as Goldfinches.

Purple Coneflower in Bloom

Hybrid Coneflowers now come in a wide variety of colors including pink, white, yellow, and orange.  Unfortunately for the seed saver, these hybrid varieties may not always reproduce true to their parent plant.  However the native Purple Coneflower is an easy plant from which to save seed, once you know the secret of distinguishing the seed from the chaff.

image

To save the seed, wait until late summer or fall when the coneflowers begin to fade and the seed heads develop.  At this point, begin to keep an eye on the plant, so the seeds can be harvested at the right time: after the seeds have matured, but before they drop off or the birds eat them.

imageUsually the seed pod will turn from dark brown to black and the stem will begin to wilt.  At this point, if you inspect the seed pod, you can easily see small, light brown, bullet shaped seeds nestled in the spiky, woody seed pod.

To save the seed, one of the easiest methods is to cut the seed pod off, leaving a little stem, tie a paper bag around the stems and dry upside down, letting the seeds fall off themselves.  Another method is to manually separate the seeds from the spiky pod by crushing the pod.  Be sure and wear gloves when doing this as the needle-sharp dried spikes can be painful.  After the pod has been crushed, it is easy to pick out the plump, hard seeds.  They can be stored in a cool, dry place in a paper envelope or in an airtight container in the refrigerator.  The addition of a silica gel pack, found at craft stores, to the container will help keep the seeds dry.

So next time you are at a seed exchange and see a packet of sharp, brown, skinny spikes labeled Purple Coneflower seeds, remember that, just as in life, it is necessary to distinguish “the wheat from the chaff,”  Do not take that which is unnecessary but look instead for those light brown, plump seeds.  They are the ones to save.

Carolyn

Pictures by Ann

More about seed saving?  Click here.

The Tomato Station

On a recent summer trip to Colorado for a destination wedding, my husband and I experienced a new concept – “the tomato station, or tomato bar “.  The idea is to select any variety of tomato available, heirloom, beefsteak, celebrity, etc., then sprinkle with a selection of different “salts”.  From there you move to the balsamic vinegar tray where, once again, you decide and then “drizzle” accordingly.

Tomato Station

Finally, to complete the experience, garnish with freshly chopped basil and enjoy the flavors that you have combined.

Once we were back in Dallas, I copied the idea and provided an heirloom tomato tray as one of the items for a “Summer Supper” dinner party.   It was the star of the menu.

Fleur de SelOur favorite salt was the “Fleur de Sel”, which can be found at places like Central Market, and Blackberry Balsamic Vinegar from a boutique type farm in Colorado.  I ordered multiple bottles from Westwood Farms.

As you can see from the picture, nature provides the most beautiful palette creating a real feast for the eyes.

Enjoy!

Linda

Dallasites, if you don’t have  tomatoes from your garden, try Central Market or Whole Foods or the Farmer’s Market.

Fall Crops For Dallas Veggie Gardens

If you are feeling the heat, you may think of September as the end of summer but if you are outside ready to work in your veggie patch;  fall is on your mind.

At the Demonstration Garden on Joe Field Road, we are busy planting and preparing for fall.  Jim, as always, is way ahead of most of us and provides this useful fall planting guide : For our fall crop info click here.

Last week we planted seeds of  green and yellow bush beans and yellow squash.

Next up, seeds of beets, peas, carrots lettuce and radishes with broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower transplants.

Seeds for Fall Planting in Dallas Gardens

Seeds for Fall Planting in Dallas Gardens

Prepare your beds for fall planting:

  • First, decide what crops will produce through fall, pull the diseased and finished or  non producing vegetables. For instance, I will save jalepeno,  okra, basil, and one of my tomato plants.
  • Pull back the mulch or set it aside on a tarp or in a wheelbarrow and add compost to your vegetable bed.  It is important to remove the mulch for seed planting and so that you don’t incorporate it into the soil.
  • After adding and forking your compost into the soil, you are ready to sow seeds or add transplants.
  •  Add back the mulch around transplants only. When your seeds have sprouted and have their “true” leaves, you can gingerly add mulch to these plants.

Ann

Two More Fall Planting Resources:

TAMU Fall Planting Guide and NHG Guide